Before the New England camping season completely ended, I snuck in one last trip. This trip was special in a different way. It wasn’t a long drive or to a majestic national park. Instead, it was to Connecticut, the land of the Peqout, Mohegan, and Western Nehantick. It brought me to family who I haven’t seen in months, to a visit with my grandmother, and to my first solo camp stay. It was a fitting way to end this first season of travel.
In East Lyme, CT, nestled on Lake Pattagansett is The Island RV Park, newly owned by my cousin’s fiancé, Kevin. It is hidden gem, a small boutique RV park with lovely lake views from underneath tall oak trees. Standing on the small dock at my campsite, admiring the fall foliage across the water, felt like a dream. My first night there, the setting sun cast a lovely, peaceful glow on all.
I hadn’t seen Rebecca, my cousin, or Kevin in ages, and it was lovely to catch up. Growing up we visited Rebecca and her siblings often in Mystic, enjoying cable TV free vacations exploring their backyard and canoeing in the Mystic River. This trip felt like coming full circle in life. We spent the first night enjoying family dinner at the picnic table and reminiscing around the campfire after dark. For the last campfire of the season, I couldn’t have asked for better company.
The next morning I woke up to rain and gray skies, but it didn’t matter. I’ve grown to enjoy these days that force me to do very little. I puttered around the van, making breakfast and washing dishes, listening to the tap tap tapping of droplets on the roof. I worked on my blog and curled up under the blankets. When Rebecca and Kevin had a break in their work schedule, they gave me a tour of the house they are renovating at the campground and we scheduled some plans for later in the week. I wandered around the campground taking pictures, finding beauty in the small things. I swung on the swings and took in the quiet.
While I was camping solo this week, I was certainly not alone. Before heading to Florida for the winter, my uncles Tim and Rudy were visiting to enjoy a few outdoor visits with my grandmother before the weather got too cold. With an extra room in their rental available, they invited my parents down for a few days. It was a small, partial Nolan/Tonelli family reunion. That night I got to enjoy their company through living room workouts, lobster rolls, and an intense game of Phase 10. Tonellis and Nolans are pretty competitive. 😉 Being together with family almost made it feel, temporarily, like there was some normalcy in the world. It was nice. Neo and Bailey, my uncles’ dogs, were nice snuggle buddies too.
I stayed up far too late, but it was worth it. My mom drove me pack to the RV park (a thank you for all the driving I did for them this summer) and I settled in for a restful night’s sleep.
Another gray day awaited me on Wednesday, but I didn’t let it stop me from exploring the area. During a morning work break, Rebecca took my to a local farm stand to pick up produce and visit the animals.
Later that day, another wonderful aspect of The Island RV Park is its location. Within 20 minutes there is access to several Connecticut state parks. This day, I picked Rocky Neck State Park and after arriving headed out on a well-marked trail along the marsh. While the ground was wet below my boots, the sun kept trying to sneak out from behind the clouds and it was quiet. Despite numerous cars in the lot, I was largely alone on my hike, left to enjoy the lingerings of fall colors in the trees and plants.
At first I hiked through the tunnels of rhododendrons, twisting and turning around each other and upwards towards the light. Their gnarled brown trunks gave way to deep greens leaves overhead. I watched my step as I walked among their shallow roots poking above the surface and eventually came out at the forest edge and was greeted by the golden brown reeds standing tall along the marsh edge. The path took me to the far border of the park before looping me back along Four Mile River and through fields of bushes burning red and deep maroon.
I ended at the beach, first looking down on the water from the stone pavilion high on the cliff, then down on the jetty reaching out into the waves. Despite the gray skies and fog, a few families ran through the grass chasing seagulls and others braved the cold ocean water.
After a full day of outdoor joy, I headed to downtown Niantic before heading “home.” Several hours in the Bookbarn Downtown later, I went home with some new used book finds and a few birthday gifts for upcoming celebrations. Yoga on the dock and a warm dinner alone capped off a lovely day in Connecticut.
Thursday I awoke to fog covering the lake and decided to venture to Harkness Memorial State Park per my sister’s recommendation. The park is a large estate on Western Nehantick and Mohegan land that overlooks the ocean. On this particular morning, I couldn’t see the water ahead of me, hidden behind the mist, but I could hear the waves crashing at the distant shore. The low hanging clouds gave the land an eery vibe, clinging to the orange leaves lining the walkways and leaving dew droplets on the bushes. I walked down the paved paths through the back the park, taking in the calm and quiet.
Before this land was a state park, it was the summer mansion and botanic gardens of of the Harkness family. And before that, it was the space where native peoples farmed, fished, and hunted. This could have been the summer homeland of the Nehantick people where they may have grown corn, beans, and squash. In Octobers past, they most likely would have been preparing to move to their winter camp on higher ground, in loghouses, where there was better protection in the forests from the winter elements. On a cold, raw morning like this, I could imagine why they would relocate.
As I walked and investigated what this place holds today, a mix of natural fields, tailored gardens, and historic buildings lay before me. The botanic gardens were still partially in bloom, bringing splashes of color to the scenery through the dahlias. The ivy covered trellises and walls switched between forest green and bright red. The grapes on the vines were long gone, but the yellowing leaves were still holding on to the branches. I meandered about, snapping photos from different angles and reflecting on the vast changes this land has experienced in the last several hundred years.
After lunch, the sun had burned off the fog and I finally caught a glimpse of the blue green ocean out front. I wandered down to the rocky beach to appreciate the view that looks out onto Long Island Sound before packing up for the afternoon. First, a few minutes sitting in the sun, soaking up the warmth.
That evening Rebecca, Kevin, Uncle Tim, Uncle Rudy, and I gathered for dinner on the water in Mystic. We enjoyed various seafood dishes and each others’ company. Heaters allowed us to sit comfortably and safely. With a few more layers, I think I can continue to gather with loved ones outdoors for several more weeks.
Friday, me last day, was full of mixed emotions. Lots of gratitude for the months of traveling I was privileged to enjoy in 2020 and sadness for the end of the season. Mixed with some anxiety about what comes next, on lots of different levels, it was hard to get moving in the morning. I eventually did make it down to Rebecca and Kevin’s camper and “office” to say, “See you soon” and “Thank you.” Looking forward to our next gathering.
Before completely heading home and parking the van, I stopped by my Uncle Charlie and Aunt Linda’s home in Mystic. My uncle proudly toured me around the yard, displaying the hard work he’s put into the ice pond and retelling his battles against the muskrats who keep trying to make their home there. We sat on the porch, sipping tea and chatting with my aunt about everything happening in the world and our hopes for a bright future. As an adult, I appreciate my relationships with family in a new way. It’s nice to know that people can fit different needs as you grow older.
Finally I did head out and drove to my parents’ home in Western Mass where I will park the van for the winter. This past Tuesday I took the Solis in for minor repairs and winterizing, truly signaling the end of this season. While I am eagerly awaiting the spring and more travels, now I am settling in at home and taking time to figure out my next steps. One moment at a time. I plan to share updates from time to time, so stay tuned!
Tonelli's Travels 