A little over a week ago I enjoyed my last adventures in Big Bend.
Eager to escape the heat, I spent my last three days at Big Bend in the Chisos Mountains. 7,825 feet at their tallest point, Emory Peak, these rock towers offer cooler temperatures and refreshing winds. They stand in drastic contrast to the desert floor, sprinkled with green pine trees, black bears, and mountain lions. Big Bend is home to the entire Chisos Mountain range and is the only park to encompass an entire range.
My first adventure here started early in the morning, just as the sun was waking up. This was for two reasons. First, the road is being repaired and closed from 8-11 each day. Second, to beat the heat! Going early also meant I was able to nab a parking spot right at the trailhead. Bonus!
The Lost Mine Trail was my pick today, a 5 mile round trip hike with 1,100 feet of elevation gain. According to legend, the Lost Mine Peak hides an ore mine dug by enslaved Chizo people during the invasion of Spanish. The Chizo people were captured, blindfolded, and forced to work in the tunnels. Eventually they revolted and sealed the entrance to the mine, which is still unknown to this day. No ore has ever been found in the rocks on this mountain, but the land is still protected.
Different from the rest of Big Bend, the trail here traverses back and forth through Juniper pines, offering shade and protection from the sun. Each switchback offers a more spectacular view of the mountains and canyons beyond Lost Peak and Big Bend. I couldn’t help but stop and take pictures often, which made me wonder if I’d ever see the top.
Eventually I did reach the summit, a bare rock landing offering views in nearly all directions. Wow was about all I could utter. The trail ends at the top of a small rock outcropping, where you feel on top of the world. I found a place to sit for a while and admire the views.
On my way down, I encountered three people from the fire crew, watching a smoldering spot of forest on the slope across the canyon. This part of the park had a large fire the week before my visit and was only recently contained. Many trails in the Chisos Basin area are still closed. These fire observers were making sure the still burning spot stayed put, far away, so the trail and area could remain open. They explained that it was a difficult area to contain and manage because of the steep slopes there. Luckily the fire hadn’t moved in a few days and rain was on the horizon. Hopefully whatever fell would be enough to naturally end the burning embers. (And I think it was as I have not heard anything about the fire in the days since.)
Back at the car I cleaned up and headed out while the road was open for a two hour window. But before I headed back, I had one more adventure planned for the day. Down Grapevine Hill Road lay a short trail out to Balanced Rock. So Sunny and I turned onto the gravel road and started our bumpy ride. The washboard ground wasn’t so bad, kind of like a free massage, but the last few miles were full of potholes and protruding rocks. I was too committed to turn around, too close, so I kept going. Up and down a few rolling hills, slow and steady, and we made it to the trailhead. Phew!
It wasn’t even lunchtime yet, but it was dry and hot outside. I checked my water levels and decided to go for it. At a quick speed I went, hoping to get back before the hottest part of the day.
The trail carries you into a red rock forest. In all directions boulders cover the hills, mixed in with green brush here and there. Prickly pear, with their spiny needles and soft blooms, lined the path along with delicate yellow flowers.
After pushing through sand for most of the way, I reached a mass of boulders leading the way up to the viewpoint. My hands helped to pull me up and over the rocks, climbing to the main attraction. It was a short but difficult climb with a big reward.
There, at the end of the trail, is a massive rock balanced between two other vertical rocks, creating a window framing the mountains beyond. I climbed up and sat on the side for a while, admiring the view, then hopped down and took my turn under the canopy. A beautiful scene that was hard to pull away from.
Alas, I had to get back, so eventually I turned and left. But the whole trip back, I kept spinning around to catch one more glimpse.
The following day I had planned a lazy morning before checking out of my campsite, but it never dropped below 80 the night before and I was eager to leave. So I packed up early and drove back to Chisos Basin. I had a campsite reserved there for the night, but couldn’t check in until 1:00PM. It didn’t matter though, it was in the 60s when I arrived with a gentle breeze. I pulled into a parking spot, zipped up my window shades, and laid down to get the rest I had missed the night before. Ahhh, much better!
The late morning and early afternoon were then lazy as I caught up on chores and to do list items. Cell service meant I could make calls and answer texts. So I did my adulting and moseyed down to my spot when it was time.
Down in the Basin, still at 5,400 feet, while the sun was shining it was comfortable and the tree at my campsite offered some shade. What a luxury! I set up my space and relaxed into my chair.
Soon my neighbors returned from their morning excursion and we became fast friends. Before I knew it, I was happily watching the dog of one of the group members as the humans headed out for a quick afternoon hike. Maxwell and I became good buddies, sitting together in the chair, enjoying the breeze. It was nice to have a furry friend to keep me company. I miss my guinea pigs, Timmy, Tommy, and Chester, but know they are being well cared for by my sister and friend Kristi. Spending time with Max was just the love I needed.
My neighbors did come back, so sadly I did not inherit a dog. But we did get to chat more, share travel tips, and connect about life. They were grateful for my generosity and gifted me petrified dinosaur dung from Arizona. How cool! The whole experience was another friendly reminder to ask for what you need, be kind, and (safely) talk to strangers. Human connection is cool.
That night, after dinner, I headed up to the village area to watch the sunset from the Window View Trail. Warm rain splashed on my coat as I walked, a welcome relief to the dry, dusty weather. I got there early and snagged a spot on the bench, front and center. As the minutes passed, many observers came and went. I had lovely conversations with a teacher and her husband, a pair of sisters, a man on a quick vacation. The sun kept slipping lower and lower, revealing more layers of mountains stretching into the distance. Threads of silver and gold glowed on the clouds above, eventually bringing out pinks and reds. Eventually most people left, but I stayed to enjoy the ending moments of the show.
Then, all of the sudden, one of the sisters came rushing back to share their were bears down the trail! From our earlier conversation she knew I was longing to see some, so she came back to alert me! We quickly dashed back, stayed at a safe distance, and watched a momma black bear and her two cubs munch on the grasses and shrubs near the path. Although seemingly docile, we stayed far away to admire them. A few people crept close, very close, and while they returned unharmed, it was a very dangerous thing to do. Give nature space, respect the wild.
What a great end to the day though! Another animal checked off the list. At this point it was dark, and I was fairly far from the campground with the bears still roaming nearby, so the sisters offered to drive me back to my campsite. I gratefully accepted.
Back safe and sound, I settled in for a night of good rest. One more hike on the list before I left the following morning.
Early on my last day, I woke up and hit the Window Trail for my final hike in Big Bend. The sun had just risen as I set out, not yet casting its full glow on the Basin. Just the mountain tops were alight as I headed down the quiet trail.
Along my way I dipped under pine trees and traveled next to dry creek beds. Towards the end, the trail climbed down into the wash. Up and over and down stairs I went, slowly descending to the pour off at the end. It was tricky walking over the loose stones, but I took my time.
The trail ended at the “window”, a narrow canyon framing the land beyond. While dry now, you can see evidence of past gushing water as the stone bottom is dimpled, smooth, and shiny. I walked close to the edge, but stayed a good distance away because the drop off is vertical! Straight down to the valley below. It must be very beautiful to see the pour off when water is gushing down during the rainy season. Perhaps I’ll experience that another time!
After eating my snack, I headed back, passing many out going hikers looking to enjoy the same beautiful view. Back at Sunny, I cleaned up, packed up, chatted with my neighbors Crystal, Mason, and Thomas, and headed out for my next destination! More to come.
Tonelli's Travels 