Tonelli's Travels

On my way to Saguaro, I made a pit stop at Chiricahua National Monument and I’m sure glad that I did. A little out of the way, the remote protected land is a gem in southern Arizona. A long drive through barren desert, passing by endless trains traveling straight across the horizon was rewarded with a mountain oasis rock garden.

At the end of the scenic drive is the Maasai Point, which introduces you to the playground around you. Mountains are covered with burnt red rocks, jumbled together like a bunch of left behind lego pieces. They are mixed between pops of green from the pygmy forest – Alligator juniper, Arizona cypress, and Mexican pinyon. These hardy trees may be short but they are resilient, finding the tiniest bit of soil to latch onto and surviving on the slightest bit of rain.

This protected area is named after the Chiricahua Apache who once roamed freely in these hills. While this spot is known today at Massai Point, named in honor of their fearless fighter Big Foot Massai, the indigenous people called it Yahdeshut, or “Point of Rocks.” The Chiricahua Apache held fast in this area against against invading troops until the 1870s. The Dragoon Mountains provided them with peace and protection for as long as they could withstand the attacks. While they were eventually removed from the land, there are still markers of their legacy. Another example is the Cochise Head, a giant stone outcropping in the mountains that is said to resemble, and named to honor, the last Apache chief in this territory. The Chiricahua Apache were peaceful people, preferring diplomacy, and did their best to coexist with their white neighbors. As you walk around the lookout, you can understand why they worked hard to maintain peace and stay in their beautiful homeland.

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The landscape decorating this area is full of columns, pinnacles, and balanced rocks created by volcanic eruptions and shaped by weathering. Water falls into the cracks, slowly eroding the soft earth beneath, developing intricate shapes and patterns. The forms you see today are constantly transforming. Come back in a few years and you will be surprised by a new view.

I meandered around the path, soaking in the views, and then headed down the windy road to my campsite. On the way the sun cast a glow over the rocks around me, highlighting their best features. With every dip of the sun the scene evolved, a wonderful show of nature.

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After a good, restful night’s sleep, I headed out early for my hike to the Heart of Rocks. The sun was already blazing at 8AM, but the partially forested trail provided some relief and protection. Down, down, down the trail descended, making the rock towers loom above me. The dusty path skirted tall towers and unique forms, like Mushroom Rock.

Eventually I began to climb, up into the pine forest and along the ridge. Panoramic mountains stretched before me, blue and green and brown in the distance. Vast expanses of uninterrupted nature. Fiery red blooming cacti greeted me along the path, adding dashes of color to the palette.

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Eventually I arrived at the Heart of Rocks, a collection of eroded stones that spark imagination. The Kissing Rocks, Thor’s Hammer, and Balanced Rock were among a few named, but tap into your creativity and you could invent names for any rock in this forest. The possibilities are endless.

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Inspiration Point was my next stop where mountain tops were lined with pointy grey pinnacles, a fence of armor protecting them. A few lizards greeted me along the way, often startling me as I took a step forward. Usually they skittered off before I could snap a picture but a few less camera shy stayed to pose.

The way back was easy and quiet, only a few other hikers in the trail. I stopped by the Visitors Center on the way out, and took off for my next destination having logged 8 miles for the day! More adventures ahead.

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