Our first full day at the park, we headed out to hike Rainbow Rim. Outside the national park land, but still part of the Grand Canyon, we had been told it was magnificent. So, despite a late start due to some morning mishaps, we drove the hour down dirt roads to the trailhead.
The North Rim of the Grand Canyon is surrounded by National Forest, full or trees, dirt roads, and dispersed camping. While the roads are well maintained, they are still dusty and bumpy, so I was glad Crystal offered to drive. Sunny would not have made it! We moseyed along, slowly but surely, following the few scenic point signs and mostly navigating by where we popped up on Google maps. No cell service. It was an adventure!
There were many options to get to the rim, many roads forking out and ending at the canyon. We chose to head to Timp, a random choice, hoping it would be good! The minute ticked by, the bumps continued, and our blue dot on Google maps inched closer to the end of the road. One mile at a time!
Eventually we made it, and guess what? We happened to be at the start of the Rainbow Rim Trail. Score! It was thickly treed at the parking lot, so while I waited for Crystal to be ready I walked out to the first viewpoint. Stripes of red, yellow, green, stretched across the cliff side out into the canyon. Rainbow Rim is a fitting name.
Once Max was fed and Crystal packed, we finally headed out. Lucky for us, the trail was mostly through the forest, the tree canopy protecting us from the sun and rising heat. The trail was easy, a winding dirt path with little elevation gain or loss, lots of flowers to admire. Max was having a tough time with the rocks and heat, so the going was slow for a while. Putting his booties on helped, but it was still slower than my usual pacing. I was learning to adjust.
Was the trail was full of nature, but without much view of the canyon. I was disappointed, but tried to shake off my negative vibes. I guess I hadn’t asked the ranger enough questions about the hike. I had anticipated walking along the rim the whole time. Oh well, you live and learn!
We were rewarded for our efforts though when we reached North Timp Point, three miles down the trail. The forest opened onto a rock outcropping and a spectacular view of the canyon lay before us. There the cloud coverage made the reds and greens and yellows pop, tall towers and cliffs in abundance. Swallows zoomed around us, dipping into the canyon and rising back up over the forest. We were alone on the rim for a while, eating a quiet lunch and soaking up the views.
On the way back I was in a much better mood and able to stop and appreciate the tiny details of nature. Delicate flowers, the sap glistening as it dripped from the branches of trees, tall cinnamon red Incense cedars.
While the walk was easy, it was hot, and Max grew weary quickly. His booties were helping him overcome the rocky trail, but also trapping the heat in his body. Did you know dogs cool down through panting and out their feet? I did not until Crystal taught me! So, what to do for poor Max? Two miles still lay ahead. Well, into Crystal’s backpack he went for a rest and ride! It made Crystal’s journey harder, but boy was Max happy!
Eventually back at the car, happier and more tired, we headed out to check out one more view point. Fence Point, a 90 bend from our last stop, offered a new view of the canyon, more towers to admire. Then we were back in the truck for the long bumpy ride back to the campsite. That night we rested and enjoyed the cool temperatures as the sun sank behind the mountains. Max enjoyed a nap in my lap before I departed for bed early. A rough start to the day, but a great end.
The next day, our last day at the park, I headed out early for a solo hike. Having enjoyed the canyon from the rim for the last two days, I opted for something different. Any guesses? Well if you guessed down into the canyon, you were right!
Leaving the North Kaibab Trailhead before 8:00AM, I began the steep descent into the Grand Canyon! While I would have loved to hike all the way to the Colorado River, and someday I will hike Rim to Rim, today was not the day. My goal was Redwall Bridge, 2,200 feet down in 2.6 miles. Off! But I was ready with supplies and had my hiking legs rested.
The trail heads down right from the start, through a sandy but wide path, switch backing into the canyon. I passed a group of visitors on mules, enjoying a ride to … Tunnel. It looked like fun, but I’d much rather hike. Being up so high and going downhill seems scary! On the way up it certainly would be nice though!
Having mules on the first few miles of the trail also means their bathroom breaks are on the trail. Piles of poop and puddles of urine were extra obstacles to overcome, and their smell less than desirable. They also attracted files. So when those spots came up on the hike, I hurried by!
The first stop, just 790 feet down was Coconino Overlook, a spectacular view into the expanse of the Grand Canyon. I lingered for a moment, but didn’t get too comfortable because I knew I had a strenuous hike ahead. The going down would we easier, but the return would be difficult. And hot! So onward I went.
Another mile and a half down, I reached Supai Tunnel, were most the the hikers lingered and the mule riders stopped. This point provided real bathrooms and running water, so I paused to take advantage! Then I passed through the tunnel and was rewarded with stunning view.
Then off I went, for the last 0.6 miles to the bridge, but another 800 feet in elevation loss. Oof! I was determined though, and have hiked more elevation this trip, so I felt confident in my abilities. From this point forward, the trail was more solid under my feet, making for quicker and easier movement, and free from mules (and their smells haha). The trail zig zagged steeply down, the walls of the canyon growing taller around me. I passed a few hikers on their way up, taking it slow and steady. But when I reached Redwall Bridge I was all alone, able to sit and soak up the view and relish my accomplishment. And rest before the ascent!
The bridge stretched across the canyon, connecting one cliff wall to the other. It allowed the path the continue down, as there was no more walking room on my side. Walking out on the bridge allowed you to see down the canyon, and look below to the floor. The power of water to carve out this place is amazing.
After enjoying my snacks, snapping pictures for some hikers who had made their way down, I was off, with pole in hand, for the climb. Those 800 feet in 0.6 miles, rough! The elevation gain tested my lungs and heart, although my legs felt fine. I made sure to stop every few switchbacks to rest, and admire the view. Each time there was shade from the cliff, I paused too to linger in its coolness. That’s the benefit of dry heat – so much cooler in the shade because no humidity!
I made it back to Supai Tunnel, refilled my water, and continued on up. Some people passed me, and I passed others, but it wasn’t about the time it speed, but about enjoying the journey. One foot in front of the other, each step taking me closer to the rim. As I looked around, I noticed the sand change color and I progressed. Red turned to coral pink, golden yellow, then tan, butter yellow and back to tan. It matched the walls of the canyon, the earth below having originated from the walls. I’d never had a path change so dramatically before and it was a welcome distraction. Flowers gave me something to attend to as well and before I knew it I was back at Coconino Overlook!
I tried to stop for a rest and lunch, but the wind had other plans. After trying a few spots and getting tired of being whipped by wind, I headed out and up for the final stretch. When I finally reached the car, I let out a big happy sigh. I did it! 5.2 miles, 2,200 feet down and 2,200 feet up!
I showered in the van, a nice reward for a big accomplishment, did a few errands in the park, and headed to the campsite to rest. The country store across the way was calling my name and I stopped for an iced mango lemonade and double scoop of ice cream with hot fudge. Yum! A delicious cool treat to end a wonderful day.
Sitting, writing, enjoying the shade was the rest of my day. A giant moth chilling outside the bathroom was my biggest excited of the afternoon, fuzzy and soft looking. Crystal returned after sunset and shared about her adventures, and then off to bed. I was exhausted! On to the next step tomorrow
Tonelli's Travels 