Tonelli's Travels

Determination paid off and I had my shuttle ticket for Many Glacier.  I woke up early, packed my bag, readied the van, and headed off to the shuttle parking lot. I was fueled by anticipation!

It was a chilly morning and low clouds hung on the mountain tops. Everything was still waking up from a sound slumber. I found parking easily and climbed aboard the first shuttle that came by. 

It was a bumpy ride down the road. This section of Glacier National Park is under going some renovations to the waterlines and roads, hence the need for a shuttle ticket. Personally, I would not want to be the driver or ticket checker on this bus. Holy sensory overload! One trip down was enough for me. I was definitely wide awake after that. 

Ahead of schedule, I got directions to the trailhead from the hotel concierge and headed off. The sun was now shining and blue sky all around. It was going to be a lovely day. 

The trail skirted around the edge of Lake Sherbonne, offering beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. It was mellow enough to begin. The biggest obstacle was navigating around horse manure! I found the source of that obstacle a little ways later when I stepped off to the side to let a tour on horseback trot by. Beautiful horses!

The trail then entered the forest, slowly climbing up. I spied a wild lupine field on my way. And then something brown ahead caught my attention and made my heart skip. I stopped immediately and was relieved to realize it was a deer and not a grizzly bear. Phew! The young doe let me approach slowly, jump a little when I passed and stared at me. She assessed that I was not a threat but instead good company and went back to happily chewing on something yummy. What a treat to be in her presence!

I continued onward, climbing up several switchbacks, gaining elevation one step at a time. Only two hikers passed by me going outbound, it was so peaceful. When I reached a flat, another deer graced me with its presence. This one a young buck chomping on some leaves. He looked back at me and then started down the trail, like he was encouraging me to follow. So that I did! He let me follow him for several minutes, stopping every now and then to pull a leaf off a bush. I like to think he was showing me the way, leading me, letting me know the path ahead was safe. It was a magical few moments. 

After that I transitioned through overgrown brush, across rivers, in and out of the forest and towards the alpine meadow. I certainly was grateful to be wearing pants as the trail was often crowded with flourishing plants. And many of those plants I had to stop and admire. There were so many gorgeous wildflowers, new ones I hadn’t yet encountered. This hike wasn’t even half over and it was already full of so much wonder and ahh. 

There were also several large piles of bear scat along the way, a lot of it very fresh. I had my bear spray handy but hoped I wouldn’t have to use it. Grizzly bears are serious creatures. I managed to keep them away with a mix of “Hey bear!” And “I’m coming through but not staying. Don’t put the coffee on” and of course, “Lions and tigers and bears, oh my!” It seemed to do the trick for me. No grizzly bear sightings. 

When I finally exited the forest, I was greeted with a spectacular display of mountains. A smile instantly spread on my face, my heart so happy. Glacier National Park is such a special place. 

Every step I took brought me closer to Cracker Lake. The views in every direction were marvelous. And just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, I reached the top of the hill and saw it. The teal water glistening in the sun, something straight out of a fantasy novel. How does Mother Nature do this? I just stood there, stunned. 

When I finally found my breath, I continued along the side of the lake to a large rock outcropping. The perfect spot for lunch. A few hikers were just leaving, so I had the place to myself. Well, a hoary marmot did greet meet and meander around, but mostly kept to himself. I found a spot with a view of the whole lake and settled in. The sun danced in and out of the clouds above me, casting temporary shadows on the lake. The only sounds were those of birds and running water. A truly meditative experience. I lingered for a long time. 

Eventually I decided I should start the 6.5 miles back, so reluctantly I packed up. But first, a dip in the lake! I found a path leading down to the edge, took off my hiking boots and rolled up my pants to wade it. It was frigid, but so refreshing. I walked around, soaking in the view just a little more, and splashed some cool water on my face. Gosh, how lucky am I?

As I headed out I met two hikers arriving. Two young men on a college graduation trip, they were friendly and a little nervous. They had in fact seen some grizzlies and didn’t have bear spray. Unsure what they should do, I invited them to hike back with me. Safety in numbers. So Robert and Leo joined me for the trek back where we took turns clicking poles and shouting, “Hey bear” but thankfully never saw one. 

It was nice to have company to pass the time. We exchanges stories about travel and hiking, naming our favorite parks and giving recommendations. While I do really enjoy the serenity of hiking alone, meeting new people and having companionship on a long journey is fulfilling too. When we reached the hotel again, Robert and Leo gave many thanks before we parted ways. 

I went to wait for the shuttle and had one last special treat on this already fantastic day. Two bighorn sheep came into the parking lot! So cool. 

A shuttle ride to the van, a drive back, and dinner waiting for me at my parents’ campsite brought the best day to an end. I had A DAY and it was so amazing. Definitely one of my all time favorite hikes.