This was a five star day on the land of the upper Cowlitz people. It was a long day, but one filled with quiet trails, sunny skies, a happy birthday, and so much more. If you ever make it to Mount Rainier, definitely hike the Paradise Glacier Trail.
We arrived early at the trailhead, but things were already bustling. Paving work and a parking lot closure made finding a spot challenging, but as we turned around to head to the picnic area we noticed empty spaces in a pull out. Score! I made a U-turn and parked, leaving plenty of space around me. I let out the big breath I was holding in. Mission complete.
We slathered on sunscreen, clipped our bags into place, and headed out on the Skyline Trail. The first part was paved, so we skipped along easily. We came to Myrtle Falls where many were gathered, took a quick peak, and continued along eager to find a more quiet space. It was hard to be too bothered though as there was not a single cloud in the sky so we had the privilege of admiring Mount Rainier in all its glory.
The trail went down, down, down from there, which made us a little nervous about what waited ahead. And the return trip. But I did not spend too much time worry about it. There was so much beauty to see.
Soon we began the climb, winding through alpine meadows. Wildflowers bloomed all around us, a sea of color. And of course, another glimpse of the mighty volcano its many glaciers at every turn.
The farther we went down the trail, the thinner the crowds became. Soon we turned onto the Paradise Glacier Trail, largely leaving everyone behind. We entered into a moraine, a hilly gray bowl filled with rocks and sparse patches of greenery. Views abounded in every direction and a gentle breeze kept us feeling refreshed. Just a little ways up the trail a hoary marmot popped out to say hello. They nibbled on some shrubbery before ducking into a whole, just their head sticking out to watch us. And then another popped out! It laid upon the first, giving it a gentle hug. A sweet moment to witness.
The trail continued to meander, growing a little narrower, heading towards the mountainside ahead. Melting snow rain down the trail and vernal pools popped up here and there. I disturbed a frog sunbathing in one when I went to splash my face with the frigid water. Sorry frog!
It was so quiet and peaceful. Eventually we came to the end of the maintained trail, a snowfield greeting our feet. We stopped to stare at Mount Rainier’s upper extremities. We were on its base! I took a deep breath to marvel in this reality. How cool!
We then stepped onto the snowfield and trudged our way across, eager explorers today. Before us stretched a lava field dotted with fragile alpine plants, snowfields and winding streams. Up ahead were lush green walls on the mountain where freezing snowmelt gushed down in waterfalls. The glacier had retreated too much to be seen, but the view was still five stars.
We sat for the longest lunch just soaking in the scenery. We had the place nearly all to ourselves, just three other hikers quickly coming and going. I really couldn’t have asked for anything more, but Mother Nature shared more anyways. High up on the cliff side, my mom spied a mountain goat! I pulled out the binoculars and there they were! Munching on lichen on the rocks. What a special birthday treat for my mom!
The mountain goat moseyed along, never going too far. Probably enjoying the view themselves. Everyone once in a while they laid down in the snowing, resting or maybe cooling down from the sun still gifting us a bluebird day. It really was the most excellent day. None of us wanted to leave.
After a long time soaking in the joy, we did head back. The return trip was much busier, but nothing could ruin the day. We climbed up a bit more and then took the quieter trail back through the middle. A series of long switchbacks and stairs brought us down quickly and out to the visitor center. It was not an easy return trip, but the ancient heather fields helped distract us.
That evening we took our picture under the park sign, a difficult goodbye but ending on such a high note. We took my mom out for a birthday dinner and all slept very well that night. Mount Rainier is definitely in my Top 10.
Tonelli's Travels 