For our last few days on the Olympic Pennisula, we explored the ocean edge. A totally different experience than the forest, but no less wonderful. Olympic National Park is definitely the most diverse park I’ve visited. Forests, mountains, rainforest, ocean and beach. 

Our first day we went to La Push, the reservation of the Quileute tribe. After navigating confusion about checking in and parking, we walked downtown to the Quileute Days festivities. A medley of events – parade, motorized canoe races, softball games – we missed most of the events but were able to walk along Main Street to see the vendors. There were Rez tacos, burgers, and fruit salad for sale. Full body sleeping suits, ribbon skirts, handmade jewelry, and native patterned clothing. The street was bustling, a mix of tourists like ourselves and indigenous people. The ocean is important to many Coastal Salish tribes, so it was fitting that the celebration was right on the water. 

Eventually we wandered away and meandered down First Beach. The shore was littered with driftwood, like a shipwreck of trees washed ashore. A massive playground of sun bleached wood, trunks to climb over and under and hide within. The power of the ocean to sweep these giants away and drop them on the pebbled beach is quite amazing. 

Later that afternoon, after checking into our campground, we took ourselves to Second Beach. As we walked through the forest to reach the water, I overheard a mother and two children talking with excitement about something yellow. A Banana Slug, I wondered? I stopped to ask them and sure enough they had spied a spotted one in a bush up ahead! With excitement we took off, searching about 20 feet ahead as the woman said. My mom and I looked and looked and turned disappointed the further we went. Maybe it just wasn’t our day. But I wasn’t ready to give up and much, much further along I spied not one, but two happily munching on some leaves! They looked like very happy, ripe bananas. On our way out later, we were able to show my dad too. 

When we reached the forest edge, we had a long, steep climb down to the ocean. One step at a time, we made it, the salty air beckoning us forward.  A moody day, the gray skies gave attitude to the ocean that slowly lapped at the beach as the tide moved back in. It was still out far enough though that we could see the enormous sea stacks climbing out of the ocean and explore the tide pools. 

Searching in the tide pools was probably my favorite. I found maroon and orange starfish, mint green sea anemones aplenty, multitudes of barnacles and muscles. The life abounding in these little pools was bountiful. We wading in the wading and hopped around the rocks. Definitely an inner child healing kind of a day. 

Our second beach day we headed to Rialto Beach, farther north. We started at the Ranger Station and walked the Slough Trail through the forest. It wasn’t too exciting, expect for spotting some moving brush as something large ambled through the forest. We never saw the creature, but something was there! Elk perhaps?

We then headed to the beach and snagged a spot in the parking lot. Our plan was to hike at low tide, and it was well before that, so we hung out in the warmth of the van. I took the opportunity to lay down, curl up in a blanket, and take a cat nap. Delightful. 

When it was time to go, we grabbed our packs filled with lunch and layers, and started a slow walk towards Hole-in-the-Wall. Part of the reason it was a slow walk is because there were so many rocks to admire! A rainbow of green, purple, red. I hardly made it a few steps before spotting another treasure. I had a heavy bag before we had even gone a mile. Totally worth it. We stopped midway for lunch, protected in a grove of driftwood. I took time to sort my rock stash, leaving behind some for the next collector to enjoy. 

We arrived at the spot as the tide was rescinding, giving us a chance to explore. I changed into my sandals so I could go whenever I wanted, stashed my bag among the driftwood, and headed across the rocking poking out of the ocean towards the hole in the wall of the sea stack. As we were approaching, I spotted a huge starfish and bent down to capture a picture. I got a little too excited and plop! Into the water went my phone! I reacted quickly and luckily it seems no harm was done. Phew! This phone has been through a lot on this trip. I did get a picture of that starfish, in case you were wondering. 

Disaster averted, we took out pictures in the hike and continued on to the other side. We popped around from rock to rock, seaweed popping under our feet. We spotted  so many amazing things. Pink coral, so many sea anemones, hermit crabs of all sizes – some only a centimeter big! – fish, crayfish. So much life. 

While we were wandering around, we heard a fellow hiker shouting to someone on top of the sea stack. It turns out a young man scrambled up there and couldn’t get down. The man in the ground was graciously organizing a rescue mission. I’m not sure how long the guy was up there, but we were exploring for over an hour before we left. 

As we walked away, back to the car, a helicopter flew in and circled around. It moved to the sea stack and hovered there as it lowered someone down to scoop up the stuck adventurer. Just watching the whole event raised my anxiety. I can’t imagine being a part of it. I’m not sure what the consequences of that event were, but fortunately everyone was safe in the end. That was definitely a first for me to witness. 

The rest of our trek back my mom and I hunted for more rocks as my dad hustled back for warmth in the van. Our feet were very sandy and we tried to wash them off in the creek leading to the beach, but that turned out to be harder than imagined. We kept sinking in! And about ten minutes later, despite trying to stay on the rocks, our feet were sand covered again. Oh well. We certainly had several good laughs. 

We met up with the hikers who called for help, thanked and commended them for their efforts, and eventually arrived back at the van. That night we ate a warm dinner in the Land Yacht and sorted our rocks with my new identifier guide. Another full heart day. 

A little over a week ago, we experienced the quiet magic of the Hoh Rainforest. We spent two days here, early starts both times to avoid crowds and savor the quiet. Quiet is my favorite. 

Our first day we journeyed along the Hoh River Trail. While we only caught but glimpses of the river swiftly passing by, the trail was peaceful. Early in the morning we saw but a handful of hikers, mostly backpackers beginning their adventures. 

Similar to Sol Duc, tall trees rose around us, stretching for the sunlight. Moss hung from their branches like ribbons cascading down. It danced in the breeze and gentle light glimmering through the canopy. 

We meandered slowly, looking high and low. Down on the forest floor I found licorice slugs. Black and shiny, stretching at least four inches long, they slowing glided along the rocks and logs in search of a yummy treat. Their tiny antennas reached long to feel which way to go. 

Head down, searching for more small creatures, I found almond scented milipedes! Their block bodies are edge with yellow and they wiggle as they scoot along. One wiggled right into the middle of the trail, where a stomping boot could squash it. So I used a stick to gently escort it to the side. We’ve got to protect things big and small. 

We arrived at the waterfall, hidden among the trees, and wandered for a bit more until we found a sunny spot to sit. The foot bridge we elected crossed over a crystal clear babbling brook. The tranquil sound and warm sunshine almost carried me off to sleep. 

On our way back, we searched for and feasted upon all kinds of berries. Blackberries, blueberries, salmon berries, service berries. The blackberries were definitely the sweetest. But you can’t get much fresher than the side of a trail!

That evening we relaxed at the campground, enjoying the time to slow down. My dad brought me back a rock for his after dinner jaunt. A lovely gray and white one to add to my collection. I enjoyed watching the hummingbirds fuss over the feeders and even learned a little history of the campground from the maintenance man. A solid first day in the temperate rainforest. 

Our second day was another early start to escape the crowds and enjoy the beauty uninterrupted. It was lightly drizzling when I awoke and heavy fog clung to the trees. It was a damp 50 degrees, a stark contrast to our previous days. 

Our first path in the park was the Hall of Mosses. We didn’t expect to see much different, but nature surprised us yet again. First there was the stream, so pure that vibrant green moss happily grew on the floor beneath the water. It danced along as the water flowed. 

Then, up in the trees, the mosses grew more lusciously than I had ever seen. They blanketed the branches, draping down like thick quickly. In places they grew in yellow mounds, pillows resting on the tree trunks. The Big Leaf maples provided a home for the epiphytes. Twenty different species can live on one tree, prospering in the clean air and plentiful moisture (over 100 inches of rain fall a year here). These mosses, ferns, and lichen don’t harm the tree but rather help it, providing moisture retention and nutrients. The park ranger taught us that they once removed all the moss from a tree – it literally weighed a ton – and discovered the tree branches had sent roots into the moss. The tree ended up dying without the moss. The two living entities needed each other. 

We also walked the Spruce Nature Trail. It was less populated but no less dramatic. As we walked, I had an interesting observation. First thing in the morning the visitors were quiet, walking slowly, savoring the experience. Everyone whispered, knowing they were in a sacred space. As the morning progressed, the groups arriving were larger, louder, moving fast like it was just another item to check off the list. A whole different crew. I think I’ll stay a part of the early morning club. 

The nature trail was lovely and we were able to access the river. We saw rows of hemlocks growing up from nurse logs. We saw a giant root ball, heart like, giving life to a grove of tree on top. Former life inspiring new life. 

The ranger at the visitor center also taught us how to identify the trees. Sitka Spruce are spiky. You’ll say, “Ouch!” when you try to grab once. Hemlock are droopy with delicate needles. Each of these trees make up 49% of the conifers in the park. The remaining 1-2% are Douglas -firs, not a true fir but it is “friendly”, meaning you could shake its branches happily. They are such a small population because they need sunlight to grow and today not much light reaches the floor of the ancient forest. Big Leaf Maples and Adlers are the deciduous trees. Adlers’ leaves never change color but drop green. These trees are special because they help convert the nitrogen with a special fungus in their roots. Trees are neat. 

Before we left, I saw a Banana Slug! My mom spotted it on the end of a log. A muted yellow, it slowly glided along. They are so cool! Did you know they can grow up to 9 inches long and have 27,000 “teeth”?! And, supposedly, if you like them they taste like mint and make your tongue tingle. I did not try it.  But finding one made my day complete. 

That night we ended our time in the rainforest with a family walk to the river to see Mount Olympus and a campfire. 💜

Our first full day at Sol Duc, we rose early to hike to the falls. The parking lot was already filling up, mostly with backpackers, but I was glad we were getting out there early. It’s a popular spot!

The trail began at the back of the parking lot. A few steps down and then it flattened out under the canopy of the thick forest above. A little sunlight trickled down, but any wind never even flicked our clothes as the lush vegetation above kept us protected. Becky Chambers in A Psalm for the Wild Built captures it perfectly: “This old road, headed into the … Forest, a place left to pursue its own instincts uninterrupted.  Here, the trees were taller than any building you’d find outside the City, their branches locked like pious fingers against the distant sky. Only the slightest threads of sun broke through, illuminating waxy needles in eerie glow. Moss hung down like tapestries, fungus crept in alien curves, birds called but could not be seen.”

The forest here is a magical place. All the plants and animals live in this beautiful harmony. The tall conifers provide a home to birds, squirrels, chipmunks. The ferns and bushes provide protection and food for the elk and mountain lions. The moldering logs provide refuge for the slugs and insects. And the decomposing stumps provide a home for new trees to begin their life. They in fact are called nurselogs. It all feels like a warm hug. 

We were so mesmerized by the forest, we arrived at Sol Duc Falls before we knew it. The water rushes through the riverbed and spills over three separate channels, falling below the bridge and spitting out one more time through a single deep gorge. Something about the roar and flow of a waterfall is meditative. It’s a continuous flow, seemingly endless, following the same rhythmic pattern over and over again. 

After soaking up the beauty, my dad and I said goodbye to my mom. She was set to head back and enjoy alone time while we continued on to Deer Lake. My dad and I set off on the rocky, rooted path, climbing up. 

We concentrated in our footing, each step unpredictable. Hiking poles were our best aid, catching us when a foot was a little of kilter. It was focused going, so we had to remind ourselves to look up every now and then. When we did, we were treated to the magnitude of more ancient trees, shiny ferns, and new wildflowers. We passed several more waterfalls, the path never far from the stream, but they were all at least partly hidden by the lucious vegetation.  Secrets kept by the forest. A few weeping walls also bordered the trail, home to happy mosses, brilliant green. 

Our legs were growing weary from the obstacles of the trail but finally, up ahead, we spotted the lake. Deer Lake sparkled in the sunlight, surrounded by forest. We found a spot by the shore to eat lunch, but soon packed up and relocated due to noisy backpackers arriving. Our relocation landed us at a campsite on a hill with a gentle breeze while we looked at the lake, so it all worked out for the best. 

After nourishment, we continued around the lake and reconnected with the trail back to the waterfall. The most wildlife we spotted was a squirrel and backpackers in various conditions. The waterfall was crowded when we arrived, and our feet sore, so we continued to hustle on. The sooner we could put our legs up, the better. 

That evening we soaked our muscles in the super water of Sol Duc Hot Sorings. The 107 degrees felt amazing. The smell was minor and easy to adjust to, thankfully. It was a relaxing end to a wonderful day. 

Our first stop of the day was the visitors’ center, where we met a lovely man named Stan. A park volunteer, he exuded passion for his role and gave us great insight into the best things to do and see. He encouraged us to stop at Crescent Lake on our way to Sol Duc and even told us about some “secret” trails. Stan was a gem!

So stop at Lake Crescent we did and wandered around for several hours. Stan gave us a loop of interconnecting trails to follow and they lived up to the sales pitch. We got to see Marymere Falls, ancient forests, giant ferns. We sat for a while next to the river and saw less than 5 other hikers. We visited the lake and lodge, a beautiful oasis in the forest. We had a lovely, peaceful day. Relaxing and just what I needed. 

That evening, at Sol Duc, I pulled out my hammock for the first time and enjoying swinging and writing. The trip has been wonderful and full of so much adventure. Today is was nice to slow down and rest. 

We departed North Cascades and headed to the coast. Our destination for the night was Fidalgo Bay. As we pulled into the campground, the salty smell of the sea welcomed us. It’s been a while since I’ve seen the ocean and walked in the salt water. 

We spent the afternoon completing chores – laundry, propane, making beds. It was going to be a short stay, so I made sure to walk on the pebbly beach after dinner. I gathered a collection of treasures – shells, rocks, odds and ends. I’m not sure what I’ll do with all the items I’ve collected, but I sure have fun doing it!

That later evening I sat on the patio, watching the most spectacular sunset. A few seals swam around, poking their heads up every now and then to see what was going on. A large heron flew in and startled me with its squawk! It was a pretty lovely evening. 

The next morning we set off quickly for the drive to Coupeville, where we would catch the ferry to Port Townsend. We arrived very early, well before our reservation. We were placed in the standby lanes and wouldn’t you know, my parents made it on but I did not. The ferry was full with the car right before me. Ugh! So I waited around for the next one, took a short walk. When Sunny and I did board, it was a fun new adventure. I enjoyed standing on the deck, wind in my face, blue all around.

Once on dry land again, we reunited with my parents and took off for Olympic National Park. We were able to claim a first come first serve camping spot in Heart O’the Hills, which is always a bit nerve racking for me. But luckily there were plenty of sites, although none of them very level. The campground lived up to its hilly name!

Before dinner, we headed farther into the park to experience Hurricane Ridge as we were only here for one night.  Sunny and I navigated the windy, climbing path many miles into the heart of the park. The three of us then started the climb on our feet up Hurricane Hill. It was labeled as a 1.6 mile paved path which made it sound easy, but easy it was not! The hill was a steady climb up along the edge of the mountain and then across switchbacks. The views were tremendous, green mountains in every direction. Thank goodness for that, or I might have turned around!

My parents decided to pause about two-thirds of the way up as I continued to the summit. I hiked fast, spurred on by a sudden need to release some energy or process some feelings. Whatever it was, I was rewarded with a view of Port Angeles and San Juan Fuca Straight to one side and Mount Olympus and multitudes of other peaks on the other side. Those views never grow old for me. 

The walk down was much easier, less sweaty, and I stopped to admire the wildflowers. The immensity of the wilderness was powerful here. So much undeveloped land. So much beauty.

My first experience in Olympic National Park was a good one and I was ready to rest up and see more!  On the Sol Duc the next day.  

We spent two more days hiking and playing in the northern Cascades. This national park is vast and largely only accessible through backcountry hiking. There are seemingly endless mountains to explore and nooks and crannies of lakes to discover. I’d love to come back one day. 

Our first full day we opted for a gentle hike along Thunder Creek. I’m not sure why it’s called a creek as it was wide and deep, but the thunder part makes sense. The water was gushing by fast and loud! It the calmer spots it was a milky teal color, in the active spots clear and cresting. 

The path followed the flow of the water through an old growth forest. Every step brought us to another giant, standing tall and strong, reaching for the blue sky and sun. I hugged one and my arms fully outstretched didn’t even make it halfway around. It’s just magnificent that they are so large, and so old. It’s amazing what happens when we protect land. These trees are a testament to that. 

The ferns here are plentiful and monstrous as well. They blanket the forest floor in all shapes and sizes. They seem to be the rulers of the understory. 

And then there is the big leaf maple. The leaves are at least a foot wide in places. They cover my face and make my hands look tiny. They are numerous where the forest is regrowing after a fire as they are able to soak up sunlight typically blocked by the towering evergreens. But sometimes they grow tall too, weave like a snake to reach that light. 

Our hike ended at the bridge. We spied a bird’s nest of moss down below and heard a few babies chirping away. The momma flew in and out fast, feeding her hatchlings bugs. We gave them their space and went down to a sandy river beach for a snack. 

As we sat there, my mom discovered how the momma bird was feeding her young. This tiny black bird would perch on a branch overhanging the river. Then she’d plop right into the water, ride the current, and dive down! We’d wait for her to pop up down river, but this strong little one would fight the current and pop up UPSTREAM! If she’d caught something good, she’d zoom off to the nest where the babies were making a cacophony of noise. Then she’d do it again, and again, and again! Her determination, strength, and skill were amazing. I could have watched her all day. I later learned she is an American Dipper. I’m in love. 

Alas we did finally have to head back. On our walk back, caught up in admiring the height of the trees, we were surprised by a doe and her fawns coming up the trail. She was walking right towards us, her two tiny babies following right along. She stopped and stared, ears twitching, eyes contemplating. We moved off to the side and thought for sure she was going to walk right by us.  But at the last minute she jumped up into the woods, calling to her children to follow. One fawn did, but the other went too far down the trail and couldn’t see a way up. It looked left, right, and then sprinted by us down the path. They all reunited on the other side, and I’m sure a conversation was had about future encounters with humans. What a special experience for us. 

A full day of nature being lovely, mothers being badass caregivers, and heart filling time outdoors.  That night my cousin Rachel arrived from Seattle, ready to join us on the next adventure!

The next day we set off for Thornton Lake. Rachel graciously drove us the five miles down the bumpy dirt road to the trailhead. We set off into the woods, following the flat trail for the first two miles through forest full of wildflowers. And then we arrived at the switchbacks. 

Up, up, up they went. Fresh wild blueberries gave us excuses to stop and forage, letting us rest as we enjoyed their tart juiciness. The trail was challenging for some, so we moved slowly, but without complaint. It was a beautiful sunny day. 

After what felt like an extraordinary long time, we reached the viewpoint. It was worth it. Thornton Lake glistened down in the valley below, a deep blue twinkling in the sunlight. Epic gray peaks rose before us, snow fields still covering them here and there. We sat down to a much deserved lunch break and soaked in the view. 

Not feeling quite done yet, Rachel and I decided to continue on to Trapper’s Peak. It was just another 1,000 feet of elevation gain, no big deal. My parents said they’d meet us at the car!

So away we went, bouldering and scrambling up the trail. At time the path was narrow, drops on both sides, just swing a leg over this rock and a careful step down. It was a great adventure. We crossed two snow patches and watched the trees disappear as we ascended to the pinnacle. 

Once on top, what a marvelous view we had. Mountains in every direction, a full circle of peaks. We were privileged to be up there alone, absorbing the immensity of the park and its peaks. We bopped around, appreciating every view, looking down to see where we came from and the two lakes beyond. Another fabulous day to be alive. 

Sadly we did have to climb down, the day was passing by and we had my parents to catch up to. We hustled down (as much as you can through steep boulders) but didn’t miss an opportunity to eat some more blueberries along the way. We really tried to catch up to my parents, but I guess we spent too much time on the peak. I’m not really going to apologize for that though. 

We found them at the car, resting and just a little worried. Mostly hungry. So we packed up the car and quickly headed back, a late dinner and shower eagerly awaiting us. It was a full day, but Rachel and I weren’t done yet. 

After a delicious dinner, we drove over to Diablo Lake for sunset. The sun glowed behind the mountains, casting a golden sheen across the sky. As it dipped lower, the clouds were painted pink. And then just like that the sun was gone, the lake grew dark, and our beds called us. Full hearts. 

All of the sudden the road started to climb up, up, up. Before us rose chunky stone mountains that met each other in deep forested valleys. The road wound its way between these magnificent creations. Creating it must have been a feat. We climbed up until we submitted Washington Pass, and then slowly and steadily rolled down. 

During our drive the weather slowly changed and thick clouds covered the sky, deepening in their grayness as we went onward. By the time we reached our first viewpoint, Diablo Lake, it was chilly, windy, and sprinkling. The weather wouldn’t deter me from exploring! I hopped around in my shorts from sign to sign, learning all I could while admiring the turquoise water that stretched before me. North Cascades National Park was amazing me from the very first attraction. 

Due to the weather, we opted to check out the visitors’ center. It seems everyone else had the same plan! It was busy! But we managed to gather hiking information and enjoy the introductory video, which taught us about the tribes that connect to this land and how they interact with it to this day. 

After settling into our campsite, my dad and I went for a short walk to a rock shelter. This historical location was once used as a hunting camp by indigenous people. Right by the river, they likely stopped here to rest, fish, and weave before heading to higher elevations to hunt. History is all around us. 

We then continued down the trail, winding along the creek. Tall old growth trees stretched above us, giants grown over decades. Straight and solid, it’s a wonder to think these massive trees grew from tiny seeds. If only they could talk, I’m sure they’d have many stories to tell. 

That night we tucked ourselves in to our beds, wrapped in warm blankets

We left Montana behind and headed through Idaho, a new state for me. We only saw a tiny portion of it, driving straight across the pan-handle on Route 2. The scenic drive took us up and through the mountains, providing lovely views around each bend. 

We arrived at our campsites at Yaak River Campground, a lovely wooded refuge right off the highway. All felt peaceful until my parents realized they had battery problems. Ugh! The house batteries for their RV were very low on charge despite the drive and solar panels, which should have been recharging them. Something was up. They would be fine for the night, but we’d need to get to a mechanic the next day. 

I tried to stay present and enjoy the night. I wandered through the forest to the river and discovered an elaborate fort built by some visitors. I read my book, journaled, and fell asleep easily. 

The next day we set out for Sandpoint, ID, both to explore and to get some help for the “land yacht.” My parents visited not one, not two or three, but four mechanic shops in an effort to diagnose and resolve their problem. Several shops were kind but couldn’t help. One gave my dad a free windshield wiper for me because he felt badly. (Mine had snapped off a few days prior. ) Another tested the batteries and confirmed they were fine. The last one was able to identify the problem and had the resources to fix it. Thank goodness! While they worked on the rig, my mom and I explored downtown. 

Sandpoint is a cute town on a big lake. We found a great cafe, City Beach, and enjoyed a delicious lunch of local ingredients. My favorite part was the orange creamsicle smoothie. Yum! We found a lovely gift shop with the most adorable items. I even found creemee pins that I just had to buy! The owner didn’t know what a creemee was – soft serve? – so I got to share some knowledge with her.  She’s now ready to come visit Vermont! As we left the shop my mom received the call that the RV was ready. Yes! So off we went to rejoin my dad. 

A tire blowout on the highway, awning malfunction, water tank taste issues, and a solenoid failure all fixed, I think my parents are done with issues. They say things come in threes, so that’s their fourth and we are done, right? I sure hope so! That afternoon we drove a few more hours to an RV resort to rest for the night. 

The following day we toured around Coeur d’Alene, a city on the largest lake in Idaho. Beautiful parks stretched along the waterfront, giving visitors and residents plenty of space to recreate. We decided to climb Tubb’s Hill to enjoy beautiful views of the lake and city. The area was much drier than anything we’d experienced so far, but still full of life. 

After we descended the hill, we wandered around downtown, poking in and out of shops. Lots of people were out and about, which was nice to see. Soon enough it was time for us to continue to mosey down the road, so we ate lunch and headed out. More miles to go!

That afternoon we crossed into Washington, yet another new state for me. I was surprised at how flat eastern Washington is, and how dry. Acres of wheat field stretched in every direction, bordered by rolling hills of scrub brush and sage. And black rock. Black rock crushed on the sides of the roads and giant boulders plopped in the middle of fields. An interesting terrain for sure. 

And then we came to the Great Coulee Dam and all of the sudden there was green everywhere! Up ahead I saw rows of dark green rising and falling with the terrain. What was it? It seemed too tall to be soybeans, too bushy to be corn. And then we got closer and I realized they were trees! Trees meticulously planted in row after row after row. Trees with intricate watering systems wired above them, sprinkling down. And then we passed crates stacked at least 20 feet tall and I learned they were apple trees! Acres and acres and acres of apple trees. Orchards bigger than I had ever seen before. Remarkable. There must be a tremendous workforce to pick all those apples.

Washington continued to surprise me as we entered the mountains and climbed to our campsite. That night we parked at Loup Loup Canpground and were the only ones there. We had the entire space to ourselves. What a treat! It was quiet, peaceful, exciting. After dinner we wandered around and ventured down the forest road. At the end we stumbled upon Loup Loup Ski Mountain, a small national forest resort tucked in woods. One chairlift and two rope tows serviced several lifts, some pretty steep. It’s always strange to be at a ski mountain in the summer but also pretty cool to find this hidden gem all calm and empty. 

Giddy from our discovery, we meandered back to the campground, admiring wildflowers on the way. We climbed over the cattle fence and skipped back. A lovely night. 

The next morning we awoke to find two more campers had arrived during the night! One pair was even sleeping in their sleeping bags on the picnic table. That was a first for me! We let them rest peacefully and headed down the road for North Cascades National Park!

We spent two more days at Glacier National Park before a bittersweet goodbye.  This park makes me feel alive. It brings me giddy happiness. I don’t think I will ever get enough of it. I can see why the Blackfeet, Salish, Pend d’Orielle, and Kootenai tribes hold such reverence for this land. It is healing. More awaits ahead too. Our country is full of beautiful places, we’ve just got to get out there. 

Our final days at Glacier NP were spent in the Two Medicine area. Before we headed over, I stopped at the visitors’ center to learn about the tribes who are connected to this land. 

The Kootenai have called this land home for as long as memory serves. They traditionally follow a lifestyle that moves with the seasons, relocating as animals migrate. They are especially connected to Lake McDonald, a place where a special ceremonial dance transpired during the first winter.  The Kootenai use many of the plants in the area for sustenance and medicine. 

The Blackfeet people are especially connected to the east side of Glacier National Park.  They call the Rocky Mountains the “Backbone of the World.”  The mountains are home to animals, birds, and plant spirits. They also use the roots, herbs, and plants for medicine and spiritual vision quests. 

The Salish and Pend d’Orielle were originally one nation and split as the tribe grew. Hunters, fishers, and gatherers, the Flathead drainage system holds importance significance to hold.  They care deeply about keeping the highest peaks pristine.  

All of these tribes, these people, have had their land taken from them throughout history. A great deal of work continues to be needed. The parks system seems to be making strides towards collaborating with the tribes and honoring their cultures. I hope it continues and grows. 

After increasing my knowledge, I joined my parents for some unexciting but important errands. Groceries, gas, all things requiring internet. It was a chilly and rainy day, so I guess it was a good time to catch up on “adulting.” 

Then we drove over to Two Medicine, through the small town of East Glacier, and down a long forest road to the campsite. A much quieter section of the park, I welcomed the peacefulness. Sometimes you need a good rainy day, a spot away from the hustle and bustle, to calm down. 

We took a short jaunt around the lake just to stretch our legs. The gray clouds added a moodiness I felt in my soul.  It brought a calmness I welcomed. 

That night we gathered in the van for dinner, the heat from cooking warming the space. The three of us together in the smallness adding a coziness. Then it was early to bed before one last hike in the park. 

For our last hike, we awoke to crisp air and sunny skies. We parked at the boat launch for Aster Falls and Aster Park.  The wind was fierce coming off the lake. You would think it was early winter the way we were bundled up – winter hats, puffy coats, pants, gloves! But once we got into the woods, the wind diminished and the sun warmed us. 

We strolled past several ponds, hoping for animal sightings but settling for beautiful mountain views.  We traversed a few switchbacks up to Aster Park and had the summit all to ourselves for a while. We watched the clouds dance on the peaks, slowly revealing one after another until just one remained covered. I waited eagerly for it to reveal itself, but it was stubborn! We stayed until the mosquitos became too bothersome and left as other hikers arrived. 

On our way down, we stopped briefly at the waterfall. Another dazzling display of water cascading down from the melting snowfields. 

And then we were back at the vehicles, ready to move on. After lunch and a visit to the general store, we headed out. Well, almost. My parents didn’t see me pull out from the parking lot and got stuck trying to circle back looking for me. Oops! A lesson in communication learned. Once reunited, we journeyed to our campsite for the night, somewhere on the Idaho/Montana border. The adventure continues. 

Determination paid off and I had my shuttle ticket for Many Glacier.  I woke up early, packed my bag, readied the van, and headed off to the shuttle parking lot. I was fueled by anticipation!

It was a chilly morning and low clouds hung on the mountain tops. Everything was still waking up from a sound slumber. I found parking easily and climbed aboard the first shuttle that came by. 

It was a bumpy ride down the road. This section of Glacier National Park is under going some renovations to the waterlines and roads, hence the need for a shuttle ticket. Personally, I would not want to be the driver or ticket checker on this bus. Holy sensory overload! One trip down was enough for me. I was definitely wide awake after that. 

Ahead of schedule, I got directions to the trailhead from the hotel concierge and headed off. The sun was now shining and blue sky all around. It was going to be a lovely day. 

The trail skirted around the edge of Lake Sherbonne, offering beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. It was mellow enough to begin. The biggest obstacle was navigating around horse manure! I found the source of that obstacle a little ways later when I stepped off to the side to let a tour on horseback trot by. Beautiful horses!

The trail then entered the forest, slowly climbing up. I spied a wild lupine field on my way. And then something brown ahead caught my attention and made my heart skip. I stopped immediately and was relieved to realize it was a deer and not a grizzly bear. Phew! The young doe let me approach slowly, jump a little when I passed and stared at me. She assessed that I was not a threat but instead good company and went back to happily chewing on something yummy. What a treat to be in her presence!

I continued onward, climbing up several switchbacks, gaining elevation one step at a time. Only two hikers passed by me going outbound, it was so peaceful. When I reached a flat, another deer graced me with its presence. This one a young buck chomping on some leaves. He looked back at me and then started down the trail, like he was encouraging me to follow. So that I did! He let me follow him for several minutes, stopping every now and then to pull a leaf off a bush. I like to think he was showing me the way, leading me, letting me know the path ahead was safe. It was a magical few moments. 

After that I transitioned through overgrown brush, across rivers, in and out of the forest and towards the alpine meadow. I certainly was grateful to be wearing pants as the trail was often crowded with flourishing plants. And many of those plants I had to stop and admire. There were so many gorgeous wildflowers, new ones I hadn’t yet encountered. This hike wasn’t even half over and it was already full of so much wonder and ahh. 

There were also several large piles of bear scat along the way, a lot of it very fresh. I had my bear spray handy but hoped I wouldn’t have to use it. Grizzly bears are serious creatures. I managed to keep them away with a mix of “Hey bear!” And “I’m coming through but not staying. Don’t put the coffee on” and of course, “Lions and tigers and bears, oh my!” It seemed to do the trick for me. No grizzly bear sightings. 

When I finally exited the forest, I was greeted with a spectacular display of mountains. A smile instantly spread on my face, my heart so happy. Glacier National Park is such a special place. 

Every step I took brought me closer to Cracker Lake. The views in every direction were marvelous. And just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, I reached the top of the hill and saw it. The teal water glistening in the sun, something straight out of a fantasy novel. How does Mother Nature do this? I just stood there, stunned. 

When I finally found my breath, I continued along the side of the lake to a large rock outcropping. The perfect spot for lunch. A few hikers were just leaving, so I had the place to myself. Well, a hoary marmot did greet meet and meander around, but mostly kept to himself. I found a spot with a view of the whole lake and settled in. The sun danced in and out of the clouds above me, casting temporary shadows on the lake. The only sounds were those of birds and running water. A truly meditative experience. I lingered for a long time. 

Eventually I decided I should start the 6.5 miles back, so reluctantly I packed up. But first, a dip in the lake! I found a path leading down to the edge, took off my hiking boots and rolled up my pants to wade it. It was frigid, but so refreshing. I walked around, soaking in the view just a little more, and splashed some cool water on my face. Gosh, how lucky am I?

As I headed out I met two hikers arriving. Two young men on a college graduation trip, they were friendly and a little nervous. They had in fact seen some grizzlies and didn’t have bear spray. Unsure what they should do, I invited them to hike back with me. Safety in numbers. So Robert and Leo joined me for the trek back where we took turns clicking poles and shouting, “Hey bear” but thankfully never saw one. 

It was nice to have company to pass the time. We exchanges stories about travel and hiking, naming our favorite parks and giving recommendations. While I do really enjoy the serenity of hiking alone, meeting new people and having companionship on a long journey is fulfilling too. When we reached the hotel again, Robert and Leo gave many thanks before we parted ways. 

I went to wait for the shuttle and had one last special treat on this already fantastic day. Two bighorn sheep came into the parking lot! So cool. 

A shuttle ride to the van, a drive back, and dinner waiting for me at my parents’ campsite brought the best day to an end. I had A DAY and it was so amazing. Definitely one of my all time favorite hikes.