Tonelli's Travels

In the course of four days I drove from Pelham, Alabama straight across Texas to Big Bend National Park on the western most side. Golly, was I tired after that! Multiple days of 300+ mile drives are draining, soaking up a lot of mental energy and working those shoulder muscles. I am content to sit still for a few days and enjoy the dessert. But first, let me catch you up on my drive. 

My first time in any of these southern states, I’ve observed quiet differences and been reminded that you can find beauty, in both land and humans, everywhere you go. Here are some of my noticings so far:

• In southern states, when people ask, “How are you?”, they really want to know. People passing by don’t just spit it out like a rehearsed phrase and continue moving, they slow down, make eye contact, and wait for a reply. Often this can turn into a lovey unexpected conversation with a stranger. It confused me at first, but I’m learning to love it. 

• Baptist and Methodist churches are plentiful, one in every neighbor and sometime multiple within a few blocks of each other. 

• Schools are often right off of a main drag, usually along a state highway!

• People live off of busy roads too, not just farmers and ranchers, but regular houses. 

• A half full gas tank is a half empty gas tank. Stay vigilant because gas stations can be far apart!

My pit stop in Louisiana brought me to the lovely Landry Vineyards, where I sampled some more Muscadine wine and enjoyed a glass of their house specialty before the bar closed for the night. I stayed in the parking lot as a Harvest Host guest and dined on the patio overlooking the grapes. A friendly couple from California kept me company and I had a quiet, safe night.

• 

• 

• 

• 

Next, I drove straight on into Texas and stopped outside town at Midway Campground on Lake Waco. While I had a beautiful view with the lake behind my van, it was windy and noisy. We were right off the highway and the bridge across the lake was in clear view at the far end. If you just focused on the scenery, it was lovely. I tried to do just that, watching the heron scout the shallow shores for dinner and the sun dip below the distant tree-line, a fiery orange ball. Ear plugs helped me get a good night sleep, and I was off again the next day for Iraan, TX.

• 

• 

• 

• 

I wasn’t expecting much as I headed to Iraan. I veered off I-20 and onto 190 for some peace and was rewarded with long stretches of ranch land. Texas is surprisingly green with vast pastures and sprawling scrub bushes and cottonwood trees. Pecan farms breakup the wild growth with their precise rows and neatly trimmed branches. At times as I drove, I was alone for miles, but eventually there was a truck or small town to pass by. I stopped at the tiniest post office in Rochelle, TX, a one room establishment for locals to drop off and pickup mail. I wonder how long it takes mail to get delivered from there? Surprisingly the miles passed quickly, I do enjoy the quiet, and I rolled into the sleepy town of Iraan, curious about that name.

The city park was my boondocking spot for the tonight, and as I drove down the street to get there I passed an interesting attraction: Alley Oop Fantasy Land. It had seen better days, the sign faded and worn, but still caught my eye. After dinner, I strolled over to investigate and found an odd collection of items: a windmill blade, a oil tower and drill, a giant dinosaur, a caveman, and a small museum of native artifacts.  I stared curiously at the mismatch of attractions, confused at how this all came to be. And why here, in Iraan? Anyone else as confused as me? Or maybe this all makes sense to you, as it did to my mom. 

I walked out the front gate and spied a plaque, welcoming visitors to the park. Here’s what I learned. This city is named Iraan after Ira and Ann Yates struck oil in 1926 and later donated the land as a town. Hence the oil tower and drill. What about the rest? Well, cartoonist V.T. Hamelin lived here in the 1920s as well and created the comic strip Alley Oop – my mom said she read that growing up! Alley Oop was a caveman, the star of the comic strip, and he had a pet dinosaur named Dinny, hence the caveman and dinosaur. It all makes so much sense now, kind of. In 1965, the city wanted a tourist attraction and Hamelin gave them the rights to his characters and Marathon Oil Company donated the land. So there you have it! It’s unclear to me if Fantasy Land is still operating, but the rest of the park behind it is full of baseball fields, basketball courts, and running paths for locals. A pretty neat find. Have you ever read Alley Oop? There’s even a theme song on YouTube.

• 

• 

• 

• 

After that unexpected adventure, I spent a quiet night in the park and set off early for Big Bend. The drive was quiet, and sometimes I didn’t pass anyone for miles. At one point I was the only car on the road for ten miles, but I welcomed the calm knowing excitement lay ahead. More on that next time!