Tonelli's Travels

I woke up surprisingly energetic the day after the Marufo Vega trek, but knew I shouldn’t push my luck. So I played it smart and planned a short hike in the late morning and scenic drive for the afternoon. I mean, you didn’t expect me to sit completely still all day, did you?

Mule Ears Spring Trail was my destination of choice, a four mile round trip, out and back jaunt to a natural watering hole in the middle of the desert. Although only 10AM, it was already toasty and temperatures were only going to continue to rise. I quickly tied my boots and buckled my backpack. As I headed to the trailhead, I met another solo traveler and we decided to hike together for a while. The company was welcome and the conversation distracted me from my legs that did prove to be a little sore.

As the trail begins, you climb a series of steps and gain a great view of Mule Ears, a rock formation miles away that resembles the perked and listening ears of a four legged friend. The pointy rock mountains stand in stark contrast to the thick, sturdy walls breaking up the rest of the desert.

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The hike continued up and down small rises, out into the desert. The sandy path is lined with cacti and scraggly bushes, muted greens under a layer of dust. The prickly pear blossoms add a pop of color to the scene though, lemon and buttercup yellow, peachy pink, and sometimes even cantaloupe orange. My hiking buddy and I snapped pictures as we moved along, trying to capture the beauty we saw.

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Eventually the trail ends abruptly in a lush oasis, a spring of water in the middle of the desert. Areas like this must have provided much needed resources for the Chisos people. Currently they are home to birds and desert mammals looking for some refreshment.

I stopped here for lunch and parted ways with my hiking partner who had the energy to continue on. Alone on the trail, the silence was loud. Barely a rustling on scrub as the wind passed by. The vastness of the desert was clear. It wasn’t uncomfortable though, or frightening. More so it was wondrous, refreshing, to know that in this place there are undeveloped places of calm.

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Back at the car, I chatted briefly with another solo traveler, this one from New Hampshire! It was nice to encounter someone from New England, who could relate to the struggles with the heat. Haha!

The rest of the day was spent driving the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, taking in the expansive views across the open land. I ended at Santa Elena Canyon, a narrow slot canyon carved out by the Rio Grande River, but opted not to hike to see it because it was crowded and hot. Do you see a pattern here? Heat is not my friend.

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Instead I drove to the overlook, parked my camping chair under the awning, and enjoyed the canyon view from afar. Being in the shade was cooler, but even there I was sweating. Drinking water was a constant activity.

Eventually I packed up my belongings, climbed in the car, and cranked the AC for the 50 mile drive back to Rio Grande Village. I was quiet happy about that! That night wrapped up in a lovely conversation with my camping neighbors from Indiana. Tomorrow another adventure!