Guadalupe Mountains NP

Only a short drive down the road from Carlsbad, NM, you cross back into Texas and are greeted by the Guadalupe Mountains. The road rolls upwards, bringing you over a mile above sea level to a beautiful scene. El Capitan juts up before you, and it’s taller friend Guadalupe Peak stands behind it, strong and sturdy.

I spent my first day here on a leisurely hike to Devils Hall. At the back of the parking lot, the trail climbs up into the hill and follows along the dry stream bed. Gnarled trees twist around and around, stretching up for sunlight and down for water. The old, gray bark is wrapped by soft, maroon new growth, displaying the resilience of the desert. Above the clouds were gray and ominous, but no rain ever fell.

Eventually the trail descended into the wash, the dry stream bed, and I found myself climbing over boulders as I wound my way upstream. The loose rocks beneath my feet made for tricking hiking, but one step at a time made for a successful journey. It was a path of many options and I was constantly searching for the adventure.

Towards the end, the trail opens into a wall, a series of shelves dug into the rock. Carefully I found handholds and footholds and climbed my way up and over. The trail continued several hundred more feet until Devils Hall, a narrow canyon carved between the stone walls by years of water gushing down. Although now dry, you could still sense of the power of the water in winter.

I sat and ate lunch with a welcoming group of women. They immediately invited me on future hikes and travels, should our paths ever cross again. Being in nature has been so rewarding for me.

As lunch finished up, the wind began and I headed out before I was too chilled. I would my way over and down the boulders, maneuvering through the wash until the trail headed into the woods again. I got distracted by news of the arrival of my friend’s and found myself off trail, but so did a few other fellow hikers. So we bushwhacked together and made it back safely. It was a good reason to exert the extra energy!

Back in the parking lot, I noticed a few empty RV camping spots. Unfortunately my chair was holding my place at my current camping spot, 30 minutes away, and I was doubtful these spots would last that long. However, luck was on my side! A hiker I met on the trail was camping nearby, saw me, and offered to put his chair in the spot to hold it for me! The kindness of strangers is always heartwarming. I gladly accepted, headed directly to the Visitor Center to pay for the spot, and booked it back to my chair. All turned out well and I was set for my challenging hike in the morning, no more driving required!

The next day was beautiful, perfect for hiking Guadalupe Peak. A staggering mountain measuring 8,751 feet tall, with 3,000 feet of elevation gain over 4.2 miles to reach the top, this was set to be my biggest accomplishment in hiking to date. I got up early that Saturday, with my packed bag and new hiking pole in hand, and headed out as the sun was rising.

Slow and steady was my plan. Just keep putting one foot in front of the other, pole handy for support and lift, was what I told myself. The trail gave no time for warming up though as a series of switchbacks covered the first mile. In fact, after the first mile and a half I had completed most of the elevation gain!

Several people passed me, but I wasn’t in a rush. I enjoyed the growing views with every turn, watching my van quickly shrink in size. Soon I was into a pine forest, providing shade and comfort.

Nearly to the top, I passed a group of women on a guided hike and stopped to chat. Texas natives, this was their first time visiting and climbing the peak. They were amazed that I was out here on my own, saying that I inspired them to keep going. Their love and support kept me going too!

I crossed the bridge shortly after, signaling I was close to the top. No peak though before one last tough climb. And then there I was, towering over El Capitan, above the clouds, at the highest point in Texas. I did it, all on my own.

I found a quiet place to sit and enjoy the views. It was serene and gorgeous, a spot all to myself for a bit. I watched the clouds roll in, a wall cutting across the mountain. Slowly they swirled and dissipated, only to return again and surround El Capitan. They moved i a dreamlike way, no hurry in their flow, just floating wherever the wind blew them.

Eventually a fellow hiker wandered over and he sat down to chat. Come to find out, Bryan, another solo hiker, was also from Massachusetts. Our chat revealed that we had many random things in common – type of car, passion for skiing, crystals, connection to teaching, traveling alone. We both felt the universe had brought us together and decided to hike down together.

On our way out, we ran into the Texan women from earlier. They made it! Denise, Hilda, Cynthia, Melissa – wonderful people, full of life, doing hard things. One thing led to another and I shared how I hadn’t seen any javelina yet, an animal native to the area. Well, Cynthia and Hilda said they were javelina – it was their college mascot! So of course pictures ensued along with laughs. During this time we attracted another solo traveler, Natasha from New Jersey. She’d overhead our conversation and came to say hello! We had an East Coast group growing, and decided to hike down together.

Two other women from Georgia joined our group and we had a nice train going down the mountain. With Natasha, just like Bryan, it felt like we’d been friends forever. Conversation flowed easily and Natasha stuck with me when my pace slowed. I enjoyed the journey down, and was happy for company because it was a long way on tired legs.

At the bottom, Bryan was waiting for us. Feeling accomplished, yet beat, and hot, I invited them over for cold seltzer and shade. I was thrilled I didn’t have to drive anywhere. I was home. 8.4 miles and so much vertical was enough for one day.

We sat chatting for a while, getting to know each other better, forming a bond. We just fit together. It was nearly perfect.

Through our conversation we learned we were all headed to White Sands next and made plans to met up there. The friendship would continue! It was a welcome surprise that I didn’t know I needed and loved so very much.

We eventually said, “See you later” to each other and went our separate ways for the night. I settled in for the night, spent time chatting with my camping neighbor Manuel from Mexico while enjoying wine, and went to bed early. It was a lovely day. Guadalupe Mountains over delivered in every way.